Among patterns, those that are smaller and therefore less forceful are more formal than those that are large or loud. Houndstooth, Windowpane and Double breasted jacket with hatsĮven formal morning wear allows ties with patterns on them, whether geometric or stripes however, a solid color tie would still be considered more conservative. A possible exception could be ties and pocket squares, as all sorts of patterns are acceptable on silk business ties (the printed silk it’s made of supersedes any informality of pattern). Indeed, in British tailoring, many of the most popular and classic menswear patterns, particularly any plaid–from houndstooth to glen check, to Prince of Wales–were originally reserved for less formal country wear.
Articles of clothing with patterns tend to be less formal than those that are plain. Similarly to texture, patterns also play a role in assessing formality. As a general guideline, if there’s strong visual evidence of the weave or texture, it’s more casual. A textured basketweave fabric would be more likely to appear on a sports coat than a classic suit, and corduroy would make for casual trousers, not dress pants. The smoother and often the shinier the fabric, the more formal it generally is. Browns were not supposed to be worn in town, which immediately associates the color with a more casual rural setting than the charcoal grey or navy one would wear when doing business in London. A lot of this is owed to the long-established British distinction between city and country wear. Although not really a bright color, brown is also more casual than navy or grey. Bright colors are more casual than darker ones.Ī useful technique to sort this out is to think of colors one could typically wear in the summer as casual, no matter what the season–beige, white, or light blue, for example. A mid-blue suit, for example, is less formal than one in navy blue or charcoal gray.
As a rule, brighter colors are more casual than somber ones.
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